Tag Archives: Thanksgiving sides

Honeynut Squash with Maple Agrodolce

If you were at the Ottawa Whole Foods last week and were startled by a woman squealing, I apologize. That was just me, delighted to find the elusive Honeynut Squash. While not quite as rare as Pink Pearl Apples, which I’m convinced are the unicorn of apples, Honeynut Squash are challenging to find. On a side note, if you live in Ottawa and ever find Pink Pearl Apples, alert me immediately! I am obsessed with them.

Honeynut squash are sold most commonly at farmer’s markets, but they are starting to become more widely available as people discover how delicious they are.

Measuring a diminuative 4 inches in length, they look like baby Butternut squash. But Honeynuts have an inherent sweetness that is much more concentrated than Butternut. When roasted at high heat, they have caramel and malt-like notes. Big bonus, the skin is so thin that it’s edible, so no peeling required. The flesh is silky smooth, not at all stringy. Plus, they are just freaking adorable. Who wouldn’t love their own personal sized squash?

If you can’t find them, this recipe works perfectly with Butternut squash. An agrodolce is an Italian sauce-condiment hybrid. The name comes from “agro”, Italian for sour, and “dolce”, Italian for sweet. This maple version was created by Cook’s Illustrated. it’s also delicious on pan seared salmon, roast chicken or roasted Brussels sprouts.

Start by giving the squash a drizzle of olive oil and a good sprinkling of salt and pepper. Roast them, cut side up, in a hot oven for about 40 minutes. If you’re feeling fancy, you could score the skin with a paring knife, into a diamond pattern. No functional reason for doing this. I just did it for aesthetics. Pretty pictures are what I’m all about these days.

While the squash is roasting, make the maple agrodolce. Simmer balsamic vinegar, maple syrup, finely diced shallots, golden raisins, salt and red pepper flakes, until thick any syrupy. Spoon over the roasted squash. That’s it!

I garnished it with some chopped toasted hazelnuts, for crunch, chopped mint for a hit of freshness and a scattering of pickled shallots for extra bite.

Click here to print recipe for Honeynut Squash with Maple Agrodolce.

Squash, Pear and Ginger Soup

Recipe development is a process of trial and error, as my husband will attest to. He is required to eat all the mistakes. This soup came about because I had an abundance of pears. When pears come into season, I can’t help but buy all the varieties, and arrange them in bowls and platters on my kitchen counter, like a still-life arrangement. I don’t actually like the taste or texture of pears, I just love to look at them, because of their beautiful shape. The way the light hits and hugs their curves is mesmerizing to me.

I had a friend in junior high school, whose mom would buy a bunch of bananas every week, and arrange them in a bowl in the centre of their kitchen table. No one in the family liked bananas, but she loved the way they looked, so at the end of the week she would just throw them out and buy a new bunch. Determined to not be wasteful with my pears, I created this soup.

I thought that delicate floral flavour of pears would work well with butternut squash. The first time I made it, I simply sautéed a mirepoix (carrots, onions and celery) and added peeled diced squash and pears. I tipped in a few cups of vegetable stock and simmered until soft and then pureed it. When I tasted, I was so disappointed. It was bland and reminded me of the jarred baby food I used to buy when my kids were tiny.

For the second round, I roasted the squash and pears first. The benefit of this, aside from a more concentrated flavour from the caramelization process, was that there was no need to peel the squash. I just cut it in half, scooped out the seeds and roasted it cut side down, until tender. This version was better but still a bit bland. I was looking for a punch of flavour, something to warm me from the inside.

For round three, I ditched the carrots and celery, so that the squash and pears would be the dominant flavours. I added some freshly grated ginger and Aleppo pepper to the sautéed shallots. The ginger added a hum of spice and the Aleppo pepper added a second subtle note of heat. If you have never tried Aleppo pepper, you must. My little sister introduced me to it many years ago and I have become a convert. I almost never use red pepper flakes anymore. Aleppo has a bright fruity quality that tempers the moderate heat. I love to sprinkle it on mashed avocado on toast and top it with a fried egg.

I topped the soup with a drizzle of thinned out yogurt and sprinkled on some pumpkin seeds for crunch. In the first image of this post, I got extra fancy and added a pear chip. They are simple to make, and I have included the instructions in the recipe if fancy is how you roll. Fresh pear slices also make a pretty garnish. The soup freezes beautifully, so tuck away any leftovers in the freezer for another day.

Smoked Paprika Roasted Squash

2 platters 1We’re all familiar with the concept that small changes can add up to big differences. The internet abounds with lists that I seem powerless to resist clicking on. You know the ones I mean; 7 Small Changes That Will Make a Big Difference in Your Life, 10 Small Changes Which Make a Big Difference11 Small Lifestyle Changes That Can Make A Big Difference In Your Health & Happiness.

Last week I made a small change of my own, which, by the way, I have yet to see on any of these lists. We eat butternut squash at least once a week in our house. I always prepare it the same way. I cut it into sticks like french fries, drizzle on olive oil, salt, pepper and smoked paprika and  roast it at 400°F for 45 minutes.

As I peeled the squash a crazy thought flitted through my brain. What if I changed the way I usually cut the squash?  Wild, I know! I went rogue and cut thin circles.slicing squashThose lists always advise you to take it slow and not to make too many changes at once, so I kept it consistent and mixed the squash with my usual combo of olive oil, salt, pepper and smoked paprika. Smoked paprika, if you’ve never used it, is fantastic. I won’t go so far as to say it’s life changing, but it is pretty damn amazing. It makes everything taste better. I put that shit on everything.salt pepper and paprikamixing bowl and baking sheet2 baking sheetsI was actually surprised at how different the squash turned out from when I cut it into fries. The slices baked up more tender on the inside and crisper on the exterior. My squash fries never got golden brown like this. They were either limp and pale after 45 minutes or if I left them in longer, they burned. These circles were consistently golden brown with an outstanding texture.dipping in chipotle mayoI’m not a scientist, but I think the reason for this difference is that the amount of surface area that was exposed to the heat of the oven was greater when the squash was cut into circles, vs. the fry shape, so the squash had better chance to release all its moisture before crisping up.

If you’re serving this to company, scatter a few pomegranate seeds on top and whip up a dip. Mix one small chipotle chile in adobo sauce (seeded and chopped fine) into 1/2 a cup of regular or light mayo. (Don’t use fat free).

Here’s a tip for what to do with the remainder of the chiles in the can. Take a few minutes to seed them all. Puree the seeded chiles in the food processor and then spread the paste out on a parchment lined baking sheet. Put it in the freezer until firm and then break it up into large pieces and store in a ziploc bag in the freezer. It will keep for months. Just break a small piece off whenever you need it. It defrosts very quickly. it’s great on chicken, fish and in rice.platter on white table

Click here to print recipe for Smoked Paprika Roasted Squash.

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