Malted Milk Chocolate Hamentashen

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The Jewish holiday of Purim begins next week at sundown on Monday March 6. The traditional Purim treat are triangular shaped filled cookies known as Hamentashen. For those not familiar with this Jewish holiday, I present to you a basic primer, my version of Purim 101. Essentially, the Festival of Purim commemorates a time when the Jewish people living in ancient Persia were saved from extermination. As in every good story, you have your heroes and your villans.

The heroes of the story are Esther, a beautiful young Jewish woman living in Persia, and her cousin Mordecai, who raised her as if she were his daughter. Esther was taken to the house of Achashveirosh, King of Persia, to become part of his harem. King Achashveirosh loved Esther more than his other concubines, and made Esther his queen. Like all intelligent wives, she kept a thing or two about herself hidden from her husband. Upon advice from her cousin Mordecai, she kept her Jewish identity a secret from the King.

Our story’s villan is Haman, a rather arrogant, egotistical advisor to the King. The King appointed Haman as his Prime Minister. Haman despised Mordecai because Mordecai refused to bow down before Haman every time he passed by.  Rather than seeking to destroy Mordecai alone for this slight, Haman decided to take revenge on the entire Jewish population living in the Persian empire. The King gave Haman permission to do as he pleased. Haman’s plan was to exterminate all of the Jews. 

Nothing got past Queen Esther. She had her finger on the pulse on the kingdom. Somehow she overheard this plot to annihilate all the Jews. She consulted her cousin Mordecai and he persuaded Esther to speak to the king on behalf of the Jewish people. She told her husband, the king, of Haman’s plot against her people and somehow convinced him to save the Jewish people. We’re never told exactly how she convinced him, but there are rumours! The Jewish people were saved, and Haman and his ten sons were hung.

The holiday of Purim focuses on the pleasures of food and drink, more than any other Jewish holiday. It is a time for celebrating and letting go. The shape of hamentashen symbolically represent Haman’s three-cornered hat. Typically, hamentashen are filled with jam or a poppyseed filling.

I’m bucking tradition here and flavouring my hamentashen with Malted Milk Chocolate. Check out the video to see how they come together.

If you are not baking with malted milk powder, you’re missing out on a ton of flavour. Stella Parks called malted milk powder the umami bomb of the baking world. It adds a toasted creamy richness to your baked goods. Ovaltine is one brand readily available at the supermarket. It contains the addition of chocolate. For a more concentrated hit of malted flavour, without the chocolate, I love Hoosier Hills Farms malted milk powder.

These Malted Milk Chocolate hamentashen have a triple hit of malted milk. There is malted milk powder in both the dough and the filling and then I chopped up some malted milk balls to coat the dipped hamentashen in.

Milk chocolate really allows the malted flavour to shine through. Jesse Szewczyk inspired the filling for these hamentashen with her Malted Milk Chocolate Rugelach.

If you’re a Hamentashen novice, here are a few tips for success:

  • Roll dough between 2 sheets of parchment paper and chill before cutting into circles
  • Don’t overfill. You will regret it when they burst open in the oven.
  • Brush edges of dough with beaten egg white. it acts as an effective glue to hold them together.
  • Pinch edges and corners really well when shaping.
  • Freeze formed hamentashen for about 10 minutes before baking. They will hold their shape better.
  • Brush unbaked hamentashen with beaten egg white for some shine.

Click here to print recipe for Malted Milk Chocolate Hamentashen.

Mile High Lime Meringue Pie

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I had so many limes in my fridge from a citrus photo shoot I did a few weeks ago and needed to use them up before they dried out. I decided to make a lime meringue pie. My inspiration was a key lime pie, but instead of whipped cream on top, I made a meringue topping. I adapted Anna Olson’s recipe on food network.ca to create this mile high version.

Sweetened shredded coconut was added to the graham wafer crust for a tropical vibe. I baked my pie in a 9.5 inch deep dish tart pan with a removable bottom. I really love the drama of a tart pan. You could certainly use a 9 inch spring form pan.

Key limes were not available so I just used regular limes and added a 1/2 teaspoon of cream of tartar to the filling to create a more tart flavour.

Watch the video to see how the pie comes together.

I used an Italian meringue to top the pie as it is very stable and is not prone to weeping. Essentially there are three types of meringue, French, Swiss and Italian.

  • French meringue is the simplest of the three. It’s made by beating egg whites until frothy and then gradually adding sugar until it dissolves. Once all the sugar has been added, it is whipped to stiff peaks. It is the least stable meringue and it will start to weep after sitting on the pie for a few hours.
  • A Swiss meringue is a gently cooked meringue. The egg whites and sugar are placed in a bowl over simmering water and whisked until they reach a temperature of 145°F on a candy thermometer. Once it reaches temperature it is taken off the heat and whipped in a stand mixer until stiff glossy peaks are achieved. This is my favourite meringue for turning into buttercream. Swiss meringue is more stable than French meringue, but can’t hold a candle to Italian meringue, in terms of stability.
  • In an Italian meringue the egg whites are whipped in a stand mixer until foamy. Next, sugar and water are cooked to the soft-ball stage (238°F) and then slowly, with the mixer running, the sugar syrup is poured into the whipped egg whites until stiff, glossy peaks form and the meringue reaches room temperature. Italian meringue is the most stable. It is perfect for putting in a piping bag as the piped designs really hold their shape. We nibbled away at the pie for several days and the meringue on top of the pie held its shape and was still firm after 4 days in the fridge.

The combination of flavours and textures in this pie is perfection. Sweet crunchy crust, lip puckering creamy lime filling and marshmallowy soft and sweet meringue topping. I added a hefty pinch of salt to my meringue and it really balanced out the sweetness.

Click here to print recipe for Mile High Lime Meringue Pie.

Coffee Toffee Shortbread Cookies

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Cookies are my love language. It’s how I show my nearest and dearest that I care about them. I urge you to bake these for your loved ones. They are a decidedly adult cookie, with a very strong coffee flavour, thanks to the addition of instant coffee crystals to the dough. I used Folgers instant coffee because the coffee crystals do not dissolve in the dough and you get beautiful coffee flecks. I love to see flavour cues in my food.

I also added some chopped Skor bars to the dough. Chocolate and toffee provide a nice balance to the bitter taste of coffee. These are a simple slice and bake cookie with a very sophisticated flavour profile.

The base Shortbread recipe comes from Erin Clarkson over at Cloudy Kitchen. If you are a baker, you must follow her. Her recipes are delicious and always turn out perfectly. She is a huge proponent of baking by weight rather than volume. I would love it if this became the standard for home bakers. This is the only way to ensure consistent results. The coffee and toffee additions are my brainchild.

The addition of cornstarch to the dough contributes to these cookie’s melt in the mouth texture.

Because I’m not a minimalist, I dipped the baked cookies in bittersweet chocolate and then sprinkled the wet chocolate with some Skor bits. Fancy is how we roll around here at salt and serenity.

Click here to print recipe for Coffee Toffee Shortbread.

Blood Orange Poppyseed Coconut Bundt Cake

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I love a good Bundt cake. The pan does all the work for you. They look gorgeous right out of the pan and there is very little decorating work to do. There’s a big wow factor with little effort.

The trouble many people run into with Bundt cakes is getting the baked cake out of the pan in one piece. I’ve been there! It’s heartbreaking. Here are a few tips to ensure success:

  • Do not grease pan with butter. The milk solids in butter cause the cake to stick when it bakes. I recently read about this recipe from @bakerstreetsociety that ensures a Bundt that releases perfectly every time. Combine 1/2 cup each of vegetable oil, vegetable shortening and all-purpose flour. Mix until very smooth. Using a pastry brush, generously coat the inside of the Bundt pan, paying special attention to all the crevices and the centre post. The leftover mixture keeps in the fridge for a very long time.
  • When the cake comes out of the oven, set it on a wire rack and wait 10 minutes before trying to turn it out of the pan. If it does not release instantly, don’t panic. Set a towel on the counter, under the cake and give the top of the pan a gentle bang. If it still doesn’t release, leave the cake turned upside down, on the wire cooling rack and wait for 15 minutes. Give gravity a chance to work. Try banging after 15 minutes. It should release.
  • If you do want to glaze the cake or give it a dusting of icing sugar, wait until the cake is totally cool before glazing.

I’m celebrating blood oranges with this cake, but any orange variety, or even clementines would be delicious.

You will need both orange zest and orange juice for this recipe. Zest before juicing. It’s much easier that way. I used a microplane grater for the zest that goes into the cake batter, as you want a fine zest for that. If you want some zest for decorating the top of the cake, use this tool to get some nice long curly strands.

This Bundt cake calls for sour cream which helps create a very rich and moist cake. I decided to add some poppyseeds to this cake for the crunch and the visual appeal. I also added some coconut. It really works well with orange, but if you are coconut averse, omit it.

In addition to a glaze on the cake, I treated this cake to a simple syrup bath (equal parts blood orange juice and sugar). This gets spooned onto the cake when the cake is still warm and it soaks into the cake contributing extra flavour and moisture.

You could certainly leave the cake plain or just sprinkle on a dusting of icing sugar, but I love to provide flavour cues with my cakes. I made a pretty pink glaze with icing sugar and blood orange juice and finished with a sprinkle of poppyseeds and some shreds of orange zest.

Click here to print recipe for Blood Orange Poppyseed Coconut Bundt Cake.

Tuna Niçoise Sandwich

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Today’s recipe is for my cousin Mark. We were recently exchanging text messages and he told me how much he was enjoying my blog posts, but he wasn’t really cooking many of the recipes. He suggested that perhaps I post some recipes geared toward novices, sort of like what Duplo is to Lego! He has a young son, so I can appreciate the context. He always makes me laugh.

He is correct. Most of my recipes are multi-ingredient, multi-step recipes. Truthfully, I started this blog, in 2009, as a way of chronicling my cooking and photography adventures, sort of like an online journal. I was doing it for my own amusement, mainly as a way to track my progress. The fact that so many people signed up to follow along was totally shocking to me.

These days, I will admit I am way more focused on the food styling and food photography aspect and less on recipe development. It is what brings me the most creative pleasure. Of course, everything I post must still taste delicious and the recipes must be reliable. But they are more complicated because I am so focused on capturing all the little details and I set more advanced challenges for myself.

All that to say, today’s recipe is a sandwich. Not much cooking is involved. It’s all about gathering good quality ingredients and assembling them. My inspiration was a Salad Niçoise. Tuna, olives, hard boiled eggs, and pickled onions are the “building blocks”. (A little Lego reference for you Mark!)

Here’s how it all comes together.

For the olive component, I made an olive tapenade. Pitted green olives, garlic, parsley, capers, lemon juice and olive oil get blitzed in the food processor. If you don’t feel like making it, store-bought is fine. There are many great options on the supermarket shelves.

For the tuna, I’m going to get bossy here and insist that you not use water packed tuna. I stopped buying water packed tuna several years ago. If you have never tried tuna packed in olive oil, you are missing out on something very delicious. Two brands I really love are Rio Mare (more affordable) and Tonnino (a bit of a splurge).

If you are not an onion fan, you can certainly leave them out, but I urge you to try it. This is a sandwich rich in fat (tuna, olives, eggs) and the pickled onions cut through that fat and balance the sandwich perfectly. Pickling onions is not a difficult thing to do and it tames the bite of onions, making them mellow and delicious.

Perfect hard boiled eggs (and by that, I mean without the grey/green ring around the yolk) are not difficult to achieve. Bring a pot of water up to a boil. As you gently lower in the eggs, yell to Alexa to set the timer for 9 minutes. (That’s all I ever use my Alexa for!) While the eggs are boiling, fill a bowl with cold water and ice cubes. When the timer goes, plunge eggs into ice water bath. When eggs are cool, transfer to an airtight container and keep in the fridge for up to a week. Peel just before using.

A little note regarding eggs: I have recently become obsessed with eggs that have a super golden, almost orange yolk. The first time I had this, I was in London, England. It was the most beautiful and delicious egg I had ever eaten. Through much research, I have discovered that those eggs come from chickens that are fed a diet high in Marigold. Sourcing those eggs reliably, was a bit of a hit and miss, but I found a brand at Farm Boy (Vita Eggs) that carries them regularly. Make sure you buy the ones marked Free Run. The organic ones are not as golden.

The best bread for this sandwich is either a baguette or a ciabatta loaf. If you live in Canada, Ace Bakery makes excellent versions of both. I used the Ace Bakery olive ciabatta in the video. Make sure you toast the bread first. Otherwise the sandwich will become too soggy.

Click here to print recipe for Tuna Niçoise Sandwich.

Winter Squash Salad with Waffled Halloumi Croutons and Pomegranate Vinaigrette

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After my successful venture with Croffles (Croissant-Waffles), I started to look at other ingredients in my fridge with the same lens. Will it waffle, I wondered. It seems like such a shame to let my waffle iron sit in the cupboard gathering dust, only to pull it out twice a year to make waffles.

I had a package of halloumi cheese about to expire so I decided to experiment. I heated the waffle iron to medium and sprayed it lightly with cooking spray. I tried a range of thicknesses and settled on 1/2 inch slices. Because halloumi is so firm, it waffled beautifully. I achieved a burnished golden brown colour and crispy edges, with that tell-tale squeak in the centre. Resounding success.

I decided to build a winter salad around these “halloumi croutons”. Check out this video to see how it all came together.

I started with butternut squash. Seasoned with salt, smoked paprika and a good drizzle of olive oil I roasted it until tender and browned. I like to cut the squash into small pieces to maximize the crispy surface area. Pro tip: Use a grapefruit spoon to scoop out the seeds and stringy fibres in the squash. The serrated edge of the spoon is the perfect tool for this.

For greens I decided on a mix of baby kale, micro arugula, and shredded raw Brussels sprouts. Arugula, frisée lettuce, radicchio, and Tuscan kale would all be good choices. You need a fairly bitter, assertive lettuce/green to counterbalance the sweet squash and mild, salty cheese.

If you have a food processor with a slicing disc, it produces julienned Brussels sprouts in seconds. If not, with a sharp knife and some patience, and it can be done by hand.

Every salad needs crunch. This one comes from spiced walnuts. If you have never made your own spiced nuts before, it’s quite simple. A lightly beaten egg white acts as the glue to help the spices stick to the nuts. I used a mix of sugar, salt, sumac and a pinch of cayenne. They only take about 12 minutes to toast and they keep for weeks in an airtight container. You can play around with the nuts and spices.

For the dressing, I created a sweet and tangy pomegranate vinaigrette. Pomegranate seeds were the final garnish, twinkling like glittering jewels.

Click here to print recipe for Winter Squash Salad with Waffled Halloumi Croutons and Pomegranate Vinaigrette.

Green Goddess Salad (and meal prep for a reset)

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Happy New Year. Yes, I realize that we are already a week into the new year, but I practice slow January. (not to be confused with dry January 😉). I have difficulty with transitions. I do not rush into the new year filled with goals and resolutions. I like to ease my way, gently, into the new year.

Cookie month (or December, as the Muggles like to call it) was glorious. I was in my happy place baking over 12 different kinds of cookies. If you follow me on Instagram, you likely saw this video of how I packaged them up for giving away. I love packaging and designing labels almost as much as I love baking and gifting them.

By the beginning of January, I was convinced that my body was comprised of 100% cookie. I always need a reset at this time of year. To remind myself to practice mindful eating and set myself up for success, I like to do meal prep. I fill my fridge with prepared lean proteins (poached chicken breasts, jammy eggs), washed lettuce and other veggies, a jar of delicious homemade salad dressing and some spiced pita chips (we’re not monsters here, we still need crunch).

These ingredients are good in the fridge for 4-5 days, so I always have a quick and healthy lunch or dinner ready without having to think about it. In the recipe I provided, I presented it as a salad for 4-6 people, but it’s a great way to meal prep and fill your fridge for the week too.

If I’m roasting or grilling chicken, I prefer thighs, but chicken breasts are very delicious and moist if you poach them. It’s a method that most people don’t consider. Place skinless boneless breasts in a pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil and skim the foam off the top. Turn heat down to a simmer and add onions, carrots, celery, parsley, salt and pepper and simmer for 20-30 minutes, until they reach an internal temperature of 120°F. Then leave them in the poaching liquid in the fridge to chill. The chicken breasts absorb all that flavourful liquid and they are super moist.

For perfect “jammy” eggs bring a pot of water to a boil, gently lower eggs into water (I love this tool for that task). Boil for exactly 7 minutes and then remove and submerge in an ice water bath to stop the cooking and chill. If jammy eggs are not your jam, 11 minutes will give you hard boiled. Cooked eggs, keep well in their shell for about 5-6 days. The yolks in these eggs were not photoshopped! They are really this vibrant orange hue. I buy them at Farm Boy. I have been told that the colour comes from marigold and other plants that contain the pigment xanthophyll in the feed of the chickens.

The Green Goddess dressing recipe is from Mandy’s Gourmet Salads cookbook. Basil, parsley and tarragon contribute their verdant tones to create a gorgeous emerald green dressing. My regular house dressing is just a simple vinaigrette, but this is a nice change and feels special. It comes together in the blender in less than a minute.

All salads need some crunch element. I’m all about texture. Croutons or nuts are great, but why not make some spiced pita chips. They keep well for at least 2 weeks in an airtight container. I spiced mine with za’atar and sumac. You can find za’atar in many supermarkets or make your own with this recipe. I find sumac at Bulk Barn.

Click here to print recipe for Green Goddess Salad.

Cheddar Latkes

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Happy third night of Chanukah. I really did mean to get this posted last week, but time got away from me. But, luckily Chanukah lasts for 8 nights, so you still have 5 nights left to try these latkes.

When I mentioned to my family that I would be adding cheddar cheese to the latkes this year, it was met with less than enthusiasm. I get it. We really only get to eat latkes once a year, and folks don’t want you messing with tradition.

My husband, ever the diplomat, responded to my announcement with “I’m not really sure how I feel about that.” This coming from a guy that puts ketchup on his latkes (I think it’s an Ottawa thing). My daughter suggested that perhaps I “make two batches, one with cheddar and one without”. Spoken with the innocence of youth, who isn’t peeling and grating the potatoes, squeezing all the liquid out and getting the smell of fried oil in her house and hair for days, as well as trying to film a video!

This is not the first time I have messed with tradition. There was the Latkes with Fried Eggs and Roasted Tomatoes in 2011, the poorly maligned Sweet Potato and Brussels Sprouts Latke variation in 2016, and Apple-Potato Latkes last year.

But hear me out on this one. You know when you make a grilled cheese sandwich and those rogue bits of cheese escape and get all brown and crispy at the edges of the sandwich. That’s the best part, right? So imagine crispy fried potatoes and crispy cheese. Two kinds of crispy. How bad could that be? Pretty damn fantastic. They were met with rave reviews.

The inspiration came from Chef Michael Solmonov. I saw him add cheddar to his latkes on the Rachael Ray show last week, and I was sold. He added a full pound of cheddar to his latkes, but I scaled that back to 5 ounces in my version, which still let the potato flavour come through strong.

A few tips for success:

  • Do not skip the step in the recipe where you squeeze all the water out of the grated potatoes and onions. You will not achieve crispy latkes.
  • Save the liquid you squeeze from the potatoes and onions. Let it sit for a few minutes and then pour off the liquid. The gunk you see at the bottom of the bowl is potato starch. Mix it with the eggs and add it to your potato mixture. That potato starch is a magic ingredient in keeping your latkes from falling apart.
  • Reheat latkes on a wire rack, set over a baking sheet. The wire rack allows the air to circulate so the bottom of your latkes don’t get soggy.

Click here to print recipe for Cheddar Latkes.

Pistachio Swirl Biscotti

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If you’re looking for a one bowl mix and scoop cookie, you’ve landed on the wrong page. But if you’ve been following me for a while, you already know that. I am passionate about beautiful bakes that also taste delicious. Sometimes that requires a bit of work. These are the most beautiful biscotti I have ever baked. They are a powerhouse of pistachio flavour, jammed with both pistachio butter and chopped pistachios.

The inspiration for these biscotti came from the July/August issue of Bake From Scratch Magazine. They did a swirled biscotti filled with Nutella. I’m not a big Nutella fan, so I decided to try it with pistachio butter. Pistachio butter is simply pistachios ground into a paste. Nothing else added. Much like almond butter or natural peanut butter. It’s not readily available at the supermarket, so you’ll need to order it online.

In my first round of testing, I used the biscotti dough recipe from Bake from Scratch, but I found it too dry. I switched to my favourite biscotti dough recipe for round two and the dough was perfect.

These are a bit more work than regular biscotti, because you have to roll the dough out into a rectangle.

When you spread the pistachio butter, be careful to leave a border, or it will ooze out the sides when you roll it up.

Check out this video to see how they come together.

A little etymology for you. The word biscotti is derived from the Latin biscotus, meaning twice baked or cooked. The dough is formed into a log for the first bake. Then the logs are sliced and put back in the oven for a second bake, to finish the baking. Traditionally, most recipes instruct you to turn the biscotti halfway through the baking process. This is so they bake evenly and get crisp on both sides. They are still quite fragile halfway through the baking time, and I inevitably break a few while trying to flip them over.

Here’s a pro tip that will change your biscotti making game. Just position a wire cooling rack on your baking sheet. Then arrange the slices on top of the cooling rack. This way, the heat of the oven can circulate around the biscotti and there is no need to flip the slices.

Not sure if you noticed the stunning shade of green of these slivered pistachios. I have not enhanced them at all with editing. They actually come that way! I ordered them online from Ayoubs. Most shelled pistachios have a skin on them. These have been blanched and that outer skin has been removed to reveal a gorgeous emerald green shade. That requires a great deal of labour, so they are not cheap, but worth it in an application like this. Of course you can also use regular shelled pistachios and it will still taste delicious, but they won’t be as vibrant a green.

Click here to print recipe for Pistachio Swirl Biscotti.

Honeynut Squash with Maple Agrodolce

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If you were at the Ottawa Whole Foods last week and were startled by a woman squealing, I apologize. That was just me, delighted to find the elusive Honeynut Squash. While not quite as rare as Pink Pearl Apples, which I’m convinced are the unicorn of apples, Honeynut Squash are challenging to find. On a side note, if you live in Ottawa and ever find Pink Pearl Apples, alert me immediately! I am obsessed with them.

Honeynut squash are sold most commonly at farmer’s markets, but they are starting to become more widely available as people discover how delicious they are.

Measuring a diminuative 4 inches in length, they look like baby Butternut squash. But Honeynuts have an inherent sweetness that is much more concentrated than Butternut. When roasted at high heat, they have caramel and malt-like notes. Big bonus, the skin is so thin that it’s edible, so no peeling required. The flesh is silky smooth, not at all stringy. Plus, they are just freaking adorable. Who wouldn’t love their own personal sized squash?

If you can’t find them, this recipe works perfectly with Butternut squash. An agrodolce is an Italian sauce-condiment hybrid. The name comes from “agro”, Italian for sour, and “dolce”, Italian for sweet. This maple version was created by Cook’s Illustrated. it’s also delicious on pan seared salmon, roast chicken or roasted Brussels sprouts.

Start by giving the squash a drizzle of olive oil and a good sprinkling of salt and pepper. Roast them, cut side up, in a hot oven for about 40 minutes. If you’re feeling fancy, you could score the skin with a paring knife, into a diamond pattern. No functional reason for doing this. I just did it for aesthetics. Pretty pictures are what I’m all about these days.

While the squash is roasting, make the maple agrodolce. Simmer balsamic vinegar, maple syrup, finely diced shallots, golden raisins, salt and red pepper flakes, until thick any syrupy. Spoon over the roasted squash. That’s it!

I garnished it with some chopped toasted hazelnuts, for crunch, chopped mint for a hit of freshness and a scattering of pickled shallots for extra bite.

Click here to print recipe for Honeynut Squash with Maple Agrodolce.

Brown Butter Chocolate Chunk Coffee Toffee Cookies

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When a cookie title contains the words brown butter, it better deliver that toasty, nutty flavour profile. If you’re curious about the science behind brown butter, here’s a quick primer. Butter is composed of butterfat, milk protein and water. When you brown butter, you are essentially toasting the milk protein. As you heat the butter, and it begins to bubble and sputter away, the water evaporates and the hot butterfat begins to cook the milk solids, turning them from creamy yellow to speckled brown and your whole kitchen smells like toasted hazelnuts. It’s these toasted milk solids (not the fat itself) that give brown butter its nutty taste 

The issue I have with using browned butter in baked goods is that once it is mixed with the sugar, flour, and eggs, the brown butter flavour becomes quite subtle. So I’m always left wondering if it’s worth it to take the time to brown butter when baking. And then I came across this Bon Appétit article, “For the Best Brown Butter, You Need Milk Powder.”

Author Shilpa Uskovic explains, “If you want brown butter to be the mayor of Flavourtown, the main character of the story, you’ve got to maximize those milk solids. Enter from stage right: nonfat dry milk powder. Milk is mostly water with some fat and milk solids (same building blocks as butter, just different ratios). Remove the water and fat and you get nonfat milk powder—what is essentially pure milk solids. The very same milk solids that play a starring role in brown butter. Which means all you have to do is add a scoop of milk powder to melting butter, and you’ll go from brown butter to brownest butter.”

The brown butter flavour of these cookies is quite pronounced, and certainly worth the effort of taking the extra time to prepare the toasted milk powder. Most supermarkets carry milk powder. It is most commonly sold as skim milk powder. Here in Ontario I buy it at Bulk Barn. I include detailed instructions in the recipe for how to make your own toasted milk powder. The recipe makes more than you will need for one batch of cookies. Keep it in the fridge and use to boost the flavour of a buttercream or frosting.

The recipe incorporates a mix of all-purpose flour and bread flour. The higher protein content of bread flour will make the cookies a bit chewier. A heaping teaspoon of instant espresso powder will give the cookies a more adult flavour profile and help temper the sweetness. I also added some toffee chips. You could use Skor Bits or make your own toffee. I have included the recipe if you’re keen to try. If you have a candy thermometer you can make your own toffee.

What is really critical here is to avoid using regular chocolate chips from the supermarket. You want the very best quality chocolate here. My favourite are from Valrhona. I love their 64% Manjari bittersweet feves (discs).

Here are a few tips for cookie success:

  • Scoop your cookie dough with an ice cream scoop for consistent size. Scoop the cookies while the dough is still soft, before chilling.
  • Chill the cookie scoops for at least 3 hours or up to 72 hours, so that all the flour in the dough has a chance to hydrate. Make sure you wrap the cookie dough balls well with plastic wrap so that they do not dehydrate.
  • Double up your baking sheets when baking the cookies, so that the bottom of the cookies do not get too brown.
  • Don’t add all the chopped chocolate to the cookie dough. Hold back about 1/3 of the amount. After the cookies have been baking for about 5 minutes, remove from oven and stud each cookie with an additional few chunks and then continue baking. You will get Instagram worthy melting pools of chocolate on top of each cookie.
  • For perfectly round cookies, all you need is a round cookie cutter larger than the size of the baked cookies. As soon as the cookies come out of the oven, place the cookie cutter over each cookie and give the cookie inside a spin. This quick swirl will help smooth any uneven edges.
  • Use a good quality flaky sea salt to sprinkle sparingly on the just baked cookies.

Click here to print recipe for Brown Butter Chocolate Chunk Coffee Toffee Cookies.

Apple Maple Rose Tarts

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I would describe myself as having perseverant tendencies. Perseverance refers to the drive and determination to complete a project or task, regardless of how long it takes or how many setbacks you experience along the way. Perseverance is not giving up.

I had seen these apple rose tarts all over Instagram for a while now. They have been on my must-make list for several months. I finally got around to trying them a few weeks ago. There are many versions on this theme, but they all boil down to this basic process: thinly slice apples and cook them until slightly pliable, but not mushy. Cut strips of store bought puff pastry, spread with jam and roll the thinly sliced apples up in the pastry, to form a “rose”. Bake until done.

I believe the original recipe was created by Manuela Mazzocco. Check out her reel on Instagram to see how she makes them.

Armed with several pounds of all-butter frozen puff pastry, and about 20 pounds of apples I got to work. I ran into two main roadblocks. The first problem was that the pastry in the centre of the rose never got fully cooked. Raw puff pastry is disgusting not pleasant to eat. If I baked the roses longer, the outside of the pastry burned. The second issue I had was that the thinly sliced apples burned at the edges because puff pastry needs a hot oven and at least 30-40 minutes to bake.

I tried rolling the strips tighter, then looser, baked them in muffin tins and individual ceramic ramekins and even tried baking them upside down. While my husband happily ate all the mistakes, I continued to persevere. I had to figure this out.

Eventually I wondered if I could just form the apple rose without rolling it up in pastry. Once the rose was formed, I just wrapped the exterior in a circle of puff pastry. Success. Check out my video to see how I did it.

Here is what I discovered in my journey:

You can thinly slice the apples by hand with a very sharp knife and some good knife skills, but it is much easier and you will get much more consistent results with a mandoline.

Firm white fleshed apples, such as Cortland or Empire apples, produce the prettiest roses. Honeycrisp apples are also good, although their flesh is a bit more yellow than the snowy white interior of the Cortland or Empire. I added a few drops of pink gel food colouring to the cooking water. It gave the white fleshed apples a beautiful pale pink tint.

Defrost puff pastry overnight in the refrigerator. Chill your softened apples before forming the roses and wrapping them in the puff pastry. Hot or warm apples on cold puff pastry are a poor combination.

When rolling out the thawed puff pastry, flour your work surface and rolling pin and roll gently.

Try brushing the puff pastry with maple butter instead of jam. Maples and apple are a yummy combo.

Just as you would dot the top of an apple pie with butter, brush the tops of the roses with some melted butter and a good sprinkling of cinnamon-sugar before they hit the oven.

Pop the assembled tarts into the freezer for 10 minutes before baking. That will firm up the butter in the puff pastry and giving you extra flaky layers.

Start the tarts in a 425°F oven for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to 375°F. The intense heat will jumpstart the baking.

Make little foil hats for all the apples. Those thinly sliced apples are delicate and you want to protect them.

A light dusting with icing sugar once they are cool, makes them extra pretty and sweet.

Leftovers keep for 1-2 days, on the counter, uncovered. If you wrap them, they will sweat and the pastry will get soggy.

A scoop of salted caramel ice cream is a welcome accompaniment.

Click here to print recipe for Maple Apple Rose Tarts.

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