Week # 7 Dueling Ciabattas
At one time I subscribed to about 13 different magazines, most of them food related. However, over time I have let most of them lapse because I just never had time to read them. Now I only get Gourmet and Cook’s Illustrated. Even with just those two, I am still behind in my reading. However, in this instance being behind happened to be a good thing. Last week I picked up the March/April issue of Cook’s Illustrated and began to look at the Table of Contents. And there on page 22 was an article titled “Authentic Rustic Ciabatta”. How about that? In the very same week I was about to tackle the Bread Baker’s Apprentice version of ciabatta!As I read through both versions I began to compare and saw that these were two very different breads. The BBA bread used bread flour, while Cook’s called for all-purpose. Both recipes call for a starter of some type but the ratio of starter to flour in the final dough differs. In the BBA version, the ratio is approximately 2:1 (16 ounces biga: 9 ounces bread flour). In the Cook’s version, the ratio is about 1:1 (9 ounces biga: 10 ounces all-purpose flour). The shaping method in the Cook’s version is also quite different. They propose a method which reminded me of making puff pastry, where you fold and turn the dough about 16 times.
I was intrigued. I had never made Ciabatta before and was very curious to see which one I’d prefer. In order to make this as scientific as possible, I decided to make them at approximately the same time. This is where it got interesting. Note to self (and others who may try this), if you are testing two recipes, do them sequentially, not simultaneously. I got a bit mixed up in the instructions and ended up using the Cook’s instructions on the BBA dough.
Day One was a breeze! I made the Poolish for the BBA version and let it sit on the counter for 4 hours and then put it in the fridge overnight. I made the Cook’s Biga and let it sit overnight on the counter for 12 hours.
Your scientific baking is neat.
The BBA recipe for ciabatta is the only one I have done so I have nothing to compare it to but it sure tasted great. I will have to try other recipes now.
Great baking with you,
Susie
Thanks for stopping by Susie. What are you baking today?
I tried three of the BBA ciabatta recipes, sequentially. After a ciabatta break, I think that I will try the cook’s illustrated. Thanks for posting our experiment. Do you think that the SKOR bars would hold up in the mail?
Hi Anne Marie,
You are braver than I for trying 3! The skor bars are fairly indestructible and would be great for mailing. They also freeze very well. They taste great right from the freezer too! Just be careful not to break a tooth.
Love this side-by-side! I’m off to see if I have that issue of Cook’s Illustrated, sounds like a really good recipe to try. Yours looks the most like “real” ciabatta out of all the BBAers I’ve seen so far! Great job!
Hi Ivete,
Thanks for your comments.
Let me know if you can’t find that issue of Cook’s and I will scan it and e-mail it to you.
Wow! Excellent job! A marathon indeed!
I love the side by side review!
I also love Cook’s Illustrated and all the work the put into their recipes.
Bravo!
Well, I am developing a baker’s complex of inferiority… two ciabatta recipes at the same time???? Be still, my heart!
🙂
great experiment, loved how you tackled it so well….
Always amazing what you learn when you do something like this. And you did a terrific side by side in all ways.
I’ve long been a fan of Cook’s Illustrated with a reservation, I hesitate to think any recipe “perfect” there’s too much variation in the world for that. I do love all their experiments and feel strongly that that is the way we really learn and come to understand.
Love ciabattas.
You have a lovely site here. Very much like your Challah topping.
The BBA has fewer number of stretch and fold steps which makes a big difference in the texture of ciabatta. I don’t know about the AP flour, though, if it helps in having big air pockets. I’ll follow your lead and will experiment with other recipes.:-)
Nice job, and excellent write up! This was a really good bread. I was surprised at how different my two versions came out.
Great comparison! Both breads look good but I think the Cook’s does have more height and more holes. Excellent experiment and write up…thanks for posting it!
I did my ciabatta (for BBA) and a challah too: http://strangerkiss.wordpress.com/2009/07/05/ciabatta-and-challah/
I love my Cook’s Illustrated and it’s the only magazine I take right now. Somehow I missed seeing the ciabatta recipe or else I might have been right there with you in the comparison. Nice job.