Author Archives: saltandserenity

Memories of Bubbe Cookies

 

Bubbe-Cookies-in-jarEvery spring, when I was little, my parents would fold down the last two rows of our station wagon and line it with blankets and pillows.  Then they would wake my sisters and me at midnight and pack us into the back of the wagon, like sardines (this was before the days of seatbelt laws). Through the night we drove, to Philadelphia, to visit my dad’s family. 

We loved those annual trips to Philadelphia.  My older sister and I got to stay at my Auntie BeBe and Uncle Sammy’s house.  We slept in my cousin Bonnie’s room.  She was 3 years older than me and the most glamorous pre-teen I knew.  I loved her American accent, her clothes and her friends. I was very jealous of her pierced ears and adorable earring tree which housed all her beautiful earrings.  The rest of my family stayed at a hotel.    When my little sisters got older, they were allowed to stay at the house too, in my younger cousin David’s room. 

Our days had a definite structure to them.  We’d get up in the morning and have “Tastykakes” for breakfast, followed by a chaser of Diet Pepsi.  Tastykake has been baking in Philadelphia since 1914 and their signature product is a cream filled cupcake, much like a Hostess Ho Ho.  Then we’d set the dining room table for lunch.  At about 10:30 a.m. my parents and siblings would arrive and all the kids would go upstairs and start rehearsal for the play we’d put on that night.  Our performance each night followed a fairly similar formula, some variation of dressing my little cousin David up in girl’s clothes.

Morning rehearsal was followed by lunch, always cold cuts, coleslaw and potato salad, Wise’s potato chips and of course the ubiquitous Pepsi and Diet Pepsi.  My Uncle Sammy is a definite member of the Pepsi generation.  No Coke in that house!!  I never made a sandwich with bread for lunch.  I just rolled slices of roast beef around Wise’s potato chips.  Depending upon your perspective, you may either be amazed or horrified that this is what I remember most vividly about that time in my childhood.

Lunch was followed by cleanup and setting the table for dinner.  The afternoon usually involved some shopping for the girls.  Back in the day my mom was a marathon shopper.  What she could accomplish in 2 short hours was astonishing.  Fortunately that gene has been passed down to several of her daughters and at least one granddaughter!  Then back to the house for dinner, clean up, setting the table for lunch the next day and the evening performance.  For dessert there were always Bubbe cookies. 

My grandmother made poppy seed cookies. They are not thin delicate poppy seed cookies. They are thick and hard, like little hockey pucks.  During the rest of the year she would mail them to us in a shoebox. When that little box would arrive in the mail there was much joy in our house. (Perhaps that explains my shoe addiction!)  Saying goodbye at the end of the visit always took at least 2 hours.  There were lots of tears and promises to visit again very soon.

As we grew older, the visits were less frequent and once my cousins and siblings and I got married and had families of our own, our lives got increasingly busier.  In 1992, two years after my Bubbe passed, a family reunion was planned.  We all drove to the Neville Hotel in the Catskills.  It was a wonderful weekend.  There was lots of talk that this should be an annual event but all the busyness of life got in the way.  In early 2000, my husband and I decided to host a family reunion at our cottage that summer.  Although it was a Feingold-Gordon (my dad and his sister) family reunion, several other branches of the family were included, namely my mom’s sister, Susie, and her family and my Cousin Bonnie’s mother-in-law, Yetta.  Over the years whenever an additional guest was added, the joke became, “Yetta nother guest!!” 

That first reunion was a resounding success. (Despite E-Coli in our well, but that’s a story for another time!)  Of course I had to bake Bubbe cookies for the reunion.  Although it had been 10 years since my grandmother died, luckily my aunt had watched her mom make the cookies and copied down what she observed.  When I read the directions I thought there must have been a misprint.  It said to bake the cookies for 70 minutes!  But that’s correct.  The cookies are rolled out to about 1/2 an inch thick so they bake at a low temperature for a long time. 

While we have not been holding annual reunions since 2000, we have managed to do them every 3 years.  We held one in 2003, 2006 and again this year, last month in August. This summer there were 41 of us.  Everyone is better than the last.  I feel proud that I am carrying on my parent’s tradition of making memories for their children.  Now it’s our generation’s turn to do the same for our kids.

Bubbe Cookies

Makes 125 cookies

6 large eggs
1 ¼ cups granulated sugar
1 cup vegetable oil
1 cup warm water
2 tablespoons Crisco vegetable shortening
2 tablespoons poppy seeds
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
8 ¼ cups all-purpose flour

 ½ cup granulated sugar (for sprinkling on top of cookies before baking)

  1.  Preheat oven to 300 degrees F.  In an electric mixer, mix together the eggs and sugar for about 5 minutes, until light and fluffy.

 2.  Add oil, water, Crisco and poppy seeds and continue to mix for another 3 minutes.

 3.  Add baking powder, salt and flour and mix just until the dry ingredients are incorporated.

4.  Divide dough into 4 sections.  Roll out one section at a time, to a ½ inch thickness and cut out cookies using a 1 ½ inch round cookie cutter.  A small juice glass works very well for this. (That’s what my Bubbe used, although in her later years, she just used a knife and cut the cookies into squares.)   Save the scraps and reroll and cut out more cookies.

5.  Place the cookies on parchment lined cookie sheets.  The cookies can be placed fairly close together as they do not spread during baking.  Sprinkle the cookies with sugar and bake.  You can put 2 trays in the oven at once; just switch positions of the trays halfway through the baking time.  The cookies will take about 60-70 minutes to bake.  They should be golden brown and firm to the touch.

These cookies keep very well for several weeks in an airtight container and travel very well in a shoebox.

#12. How are making english muffins like a visit to the optometrist?

one-bite-gone

 In week 12 of the Bread Baker’s Apprentice Challenge we visit English Muffins.  I have long been a fan of Thomas’ english muffins, famous for their nooks and crannies, which are excellent at storing lots of melted salted butter.  I figured that homemade english muffins would beat the Thomas’ version hands down.  Peter Reinhart promised big holes, like the professionals get, if we can work with the soft dough and grill them at just the right time, catching them on the rise. I was up for the challenge.

This dough came together very easily, but I have to admit I was surprised that the recipe only makes 6 english muffins.  All the other recipes from the book have  yielded gargantuan breads.  The dry ingredients, (bread flour, sugar, salt and yeast) are mixed with a bit of butter and some milk and kneaded in the mixer for about 8-10 minutes.  Then the dough is set aside to ferment, until it doubles in size, about 60-90 minutes.

dough-ready-for-primary-fer

dough-more-than-doubled

It was a very warm day and as usual, I was multi-tasking and didn’t quite catch the dough at the ” just doubled” stage.  It looks like it tripled!  Oh well, no harm done, or so I innocently thought.  I weighed the dough and divided it into 6 equal pieces, and formed the little boules.

The balls of dough are then lightly oiled and sprinkled with cornmeal, covered with plastic wrap and left to rest until nearly doubled in size.  I have to admit, this was an instruction I struggled with.  I had a really hard time knowing when they were nearly doubled.

It reminded me of going to the optometrist and getting your eyes examined.  My very first optometrist was my dad.  He’d put those lenses in front of my eyes and say, “Is this better, or is this better?”, while he changed the magnification only infinitesimally.  I could never tell which one was better but I was always too embarrassed to say so.   Truthfully, I just thought he didn’t know what he was doing but I never wanted to make him feel bad, so I just lied and picked one.  It was only after he died, and I had to go to another optometrist that I realized that my dad wasn’t a bad optometrist after all.  I experienced this inability to tell the difference at my new optometrist too.  Sorry dad, it was me not you!!

Now you look at these two pictures and see if you can tell if they are nearly doubled in size.  The one on top  is just after I formed the boules and the one below is after 90 minutes of proofing, when I figured that, they looked almost doubled.

6-muffins-ready-for-proofin

  after-proofing

Then it was time to cook the muffins.  English muffins are baked in a frying pan or cooked on a griddle and then finished in the oven.  I gently transferred them to the pan and cooked the first side over medium heat for about 5 minutes until they were golden brown.  They are supposed to spread out on their own but mine still looked like little balls so I helped matters along and squished them gently with a spatula.  Then I flipped them over and cooked the second side.

in-the-frypan

Once the second side was done they went into a preheated oven for an additional 5 minutes, to finish cooking the inside.  After letting them cool for 30 minutes, we split them open with a fork.  Fork splitting, apparently gives english muffins their characteristic nooks and crannies.  The moment of truth…

fork-split

 

crumb-shot

Even with the fork splitting, the nooks and crannies were absent.  I’m not quite sure where I went wrong.  I suspect that I over fermented (first rising) as well as over proofed (second rising) them.  Peter Reinhart says that if you catch them “on the rise” you will be rewarded with the nooks and crannies.  I think my muffins went past the rise and I missed my opportunity.  I also suspect that since my little balls did not spread out on their own, that my dough was not wet enough and if there were any air holes inside, I may have squished them when I pressed down with my spatula.  However, I toasted them and slathered them with salted butter and American Spoon sour cherry preserves and they were very tasty, but not as good as Thomas’.

one-bite-gone

Although I was a little disappointed with the results, it was still a worthwhile exercise as  I was reminded the other day of one of the reasons I began this challenge.  I was reading a book review of Marion Cunningham’s “The Breakfast Book” on epicurious.com.  In the book Marion says, “Cooking is one of the legacies we can leave to the future, and I would like to be remembered for my baking. We all know we’re not immortal, but after I’m gone, I would like my son and daughter to be able to say, ‘Our mother made real yeast bread for breakfast.”  I couldn’t have said it better myself!

P.S.  My sons and daughter loved the english muffins.

#11. Not feeling much like celebrating but I made Cranberry Walnut Celebration Bread anyways

sliced-1

The day I made bread # 11 in the Bread Baker’s Apprentice Challenge, in late July, I was expecting 12 guests for the weekend at my cottage.  It’s not quite as daunting as it sounds, as I learned a long time ago, that when weekend guests ask what they can bring, assign them a meal.  So I was going to make Friday night dinner and Sunday brunch and had assigned Saturday lunch to one friend, Saturday cocktails, hors d’oeuvres and dinner to two other friends.  So all in all, I was in good shape.  Or so I thought, until I woke up Friday morning with a headache, fever and canker sores in my mouth.  Luckily I had my niece here visiting from New York and she rolled up her sleeves and helped me bake.

First we tackled the challah dough that I had made the day before and fermented in the fridge overnight.  We needed to braid 2 loaves for Friday night’s dinner.  My niece was keen to tackle the 6 strand challah I had seen on a youtube video.  So we brought the laptop into the kitchen and after several attempts, braiding and then unbraiding, she mastered it. 

I must say, you learn a lot about a person when you braid bread with them.  What my niece lacks in the way of fine motor and visual perception skills (sorry Sam), she more than makes up for in determination.  She was not about to let this bread get the best of her and after about 30 minutes, she had successfully braided it.  I have to admit, that I have tried to do the 6 strand braid myself, about 3 times now and each time I failed, gave up and did a basic 3 strand braid.

braiding-2

 

braiding-1

braiding-3

braiding-4

After the challah was in the oven, we made the cranberry walnut celebration bread.  To be perfectly honest, I was not that keen on making this bread.  We have been doing so many enriched breads and I was kind of tired of them.  From reading fellow BBA challenger’s blogs, I gathered I was not alone in feeling this way.  Oggi at “I Can Do That” talked about “celebration fatigue” and I know just what she means.  However, I signed on to this challenge and I’m committed to bake each bread, in order.

I decided to incorporate some whole wheat flour into this bread.  I used about 4 ounces whole wheat bread flour and the balance (9.5 ounces) was white bread flour.  Although the recipe called for orange extract, I used orange zest instead.  I also toasted my walnuts first.

mise-en-place2

The dough comes together fairly easily.  Dry ingredients are put in the mixer bowl and wet ingredients are added and kneaded for about 5 minutes on medium speed with the dough hook.  It is a soft and pliable dough.  I decided to knead in the cranberries and walnuts by hand.  it seems as though you will never incorporate them all, but finally, they are all crammed into the dough.

crammed-in-all-the-walnuts-

Then the dough is set aside to ferment and double in size, about 2 hours.  While it was fermenting I prepped the rest of my dinner.  (For anyone interested, I made London broil on the BBQ, dilled green bean salad, roasted potatoes and a tomato, basil and purple onion salad with a balsamic vinaigrette.)  The directions in the book call for doing one large braid and then topping it off with a smaller braid, sort of a double decker braid.  My head was pounding and I did not have the brain capacity to do the math necessary for getting the proportions correct, so I just did a 3 strand braid and coiled it into a circle.

all-coiled-up

The loaf proofed for about 90 minutes and grew quite large.  I egg washed it and baked it for about 50 minutes.  I set it out to cool and after about an hour my guests started arriving.  I had planned to serve the bread toasted for breakfast on Saturday morning but everyone who came in smelled and then saw the bread and wanted to taste it.  Slice by slice, it disappeared.  My mouth was so sore, I did not even taste it, but everyone said it was delicious!

sliced-2

I can’t leave you wondering about  how the rest of the weekend turned out.  I spent the entire day in bed on Saturday, knowing that lunch and dinner were taken care of.  By Sunday morning I hade a sore throat and no voice but had 24 bagels, proofing in the fridge, waiting patiently to be boiled and baked.  I wisely decided that I should not handle any food as I was so filled with germs.  I wrote out the instructions and had my friends do the work.  They were thrilled to be making the bagels and marveled at how simple it was and how delicious they were.  I think I may have sold a few more copies of the book!

margo-biting-bagel

#10. Girl’s Week Cornbread

slice

I have to admit, I didn’t go into this week’s challenge with high expectations.  I have been making the same cornbread recipe since 1987, when my friend Pam shared her recipe with me.  I love her cornbread.  It combines cornmeal and corn flour and makes for a very tender cornbread.  I add canned corn to it which enhances the sweetness and finely diced jalapeno which helps to temper the sweetness.  All in all a wonderful recipe.  I was never tempted to stray from this perfection.  However, the Bread Bakers Apprentice Challenge called for making Peter Reinhart’s cornbread recipe this week.

This is the only bread recipe in the book that does not call for yeast.  In baking terminology, it’s what is known as a “quick bread” which relies on chemical leavening, typically baking soda and/or baking powder.  While classified as  a quick bread, this version of cornbread takes 2 days to make.  However, day 1 just consists of 5 minutes of time to make the cornmeal soaker.  Coarse cornmeal (also known as polenta) is given an overnight bath in buttermilk.  I did not have any buttermilk, and as I am at the lake at my cottage, I did not feel like driving 20 minutes to the store, so I just added a bit of lemon juice to the milk to sour it.

The next day assembling the rest of the bread is simple.  Sift flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt into a mixing bowl.  Stir in brown and white sugar.  In a separate bowl, the eggs are beaten and honey and melted butter are mixed into the eggs.  This whole mixture then gets combined with the buttermilk soaked polenta.  Dry and wet ingredients are combined and some frozen corn is mixed in.  I also added a finely diced jalapeno.

The cornbread is baked in a 10 inch pan.  I only had a 9 inch pan so I also used some mini loaf pans.  The baking dishes are coated in bacon grease and heated in the oven for 5 minutes before the cornbread batter is added.  This gives the cornbread a crisp crust.  I was not using bacon so I just brushed the pans with vegetable oil and heated them.

I was a bit distracted as I baked the cornbread and did not take my usual step by step photos.  For this you can blame my friends Lynnie and Paula.  They came up to my cottage to spend a few days with me and we were very busy laughing and drinking wine while I made this.  Lest you think I totally slacked off, I did make them cheddar jalapeno bagels on day two of their visit, cornbread on day three and for a final send off on day four I rolled them out the door with tummies full of sticky buns.  We also collaborated on an amazing spinach, watermelon, strawberry and halloumi cheese salad.  Halloumi cheese is a delicious cheese from Cyprus, somewhat like feta but it is served fried.

The finished cornbread was delicious.  I was surprised at how much I loved it.  It had a coarse crumb and crunchy crust and was denser than the cornbread I usually make.  I will be revisiting this cornbread again, but not too soon.  I’m still coming down from my carb loading week with my friends.

cornbread-in-pans

I won’t be publishing the cornbread recipe from the Bread Baker’s Apprentice Cookbook as all the challengers have agreed that out of respect to Peter Reinhart, we will only promote his wonderful book and not give away his recipes for free.  For an equally delicious cornbread, try my friend Pam’s recipe.

Pam’s Cornbread

This recipe comes from my cooking school friend, Pam.

What you need:

1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour
2/3 cup cornmeal, can use medium or coarse grind
½ cup corn flour
2/3 cup sugar
5 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1 1/3 cups whole milk
2 ½ ounces melted butter
1 large egg, beaten
1 can corn, drained
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and finely diced

What you do:

1.  Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.  In a large bowl, combine the first six ingredients.  In a separate bowl, combine  milk, egg and melted butter, add to dry ingredients and mix until just combined.  Gently mix in drained corn and jalapeno.

2.  Pour batter into a greased 8-inch square cake pan or a 9 x 5 loaf pan.  Bake on middle rack of oven for about 45 – 50 minutes.

3.  Let cornbread cool in the pan, on a rack for about 45 minutes.  Turn out onto a rack to finish cooling or eat warm.

Watermelon and Halloumi Cheese Salad

halloumi-salad-for-web

I first learned about Halloumi cheese last summer when I watched Jamie Oliver prepare it on his TV show, “Jamie at Home”. Halloumi is a traditional cheese from Cyprus, an island in the Mediterranean Sea. It is made from a mixture of goat and sheep milk, although some halloumi can be bought that also contains cow’s milk. Halloumi can be fried until brown without melting due to its higher-than-normal melting point. The resistance to melting comes from the fresh curd being heated before being shaped and placed in brine. When sliced and fried in a bit of olive oil, Halloumi is a wonderful treat. It goes all crispy on the outside and soft and slightly chewy on the inside. It makes a great squeak when you chew it, sort of like fresh cheese curds.

This salad was inspired by an empty bagel platter.  After a lunch of homemade bagels all that was left was the poppy seeds, sesame seeds and fleur de sel that had fallen off the bagels.  My girlfriend speared a piece of watermelon and dipped it into the bagel topping.  She loved how the salt balanced the sweet of the watermelon.  That got me thinking about combining these flavours.  The next day I decided to pair it with Halloumi cheese because it has a great salty taste.  Fried halloumi cheese with watermelon, strawberries, and spinach is an inspired flavour combination!

watermelon-with-bagel-toppi

What you need:

1 quart strawberries, washed, hulled and sliced
1/4 seedless watermelon, cut into 1 inch chunks
5 ounce box of baby spinach, washed and dried
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
3-4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
8 ounces Halloumi cheese, sliced into 8 thin slices

What you do:

1.  Place baby spinach on a large platter.  Scatter strawberries and watermelon over spinach.  Drizzle with olive oil and balsamic vinegar.  Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

2.  Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in non-stick skillet.  Fry halloumi cheese for about 3 minutes on each side until golden brown. 

3.  Place halloumi slices around edge of salad platter.  Serve.

#9 Living on a Cinnamon Cloud

sliced-1

I am only just now beginning to come down from that cinnamon cloud I have been living on for the past two weeks.  I have gone through an entire jar of cinnamon in just 13 days.  Usually a jar will last about 4 months in my house.  I used about 2/3 of the jar making cinnamon and sticky buns, (okay I confess to making them four times!!) and the rest of the jar was used making this week’s Bread Bakers Apprentice Challenge,  Cinnamon Raisin Walnut Bread. 

The next statement I am about to make may shock and surprise you.  This bread actually improves with age.  That’s not a phrase normally associated with bread but with this loaf, it happens to be true.  While it was delicious fresh and warm from the oven, the next morning, thickly sliced, lightly toasted and slathered with (salted!) butter, it was sublime.

This bread came together beautifully, although not for the first time I silently cursed Peter Reinhart (PR) for putting the measurements in imperial rather than metric. Trying to measure out .31 ounces of salt is impossible. Weighing 9 grams of salt (the metric equivalent of .31 ounces) is easy. This rant has been brought to you by the “Cookbooks Go Metric” committee (me).  Anyways, forgive this aside, back to the Cinnamon Raisin Bread. 

It begins by combining the dry ingredients (bread flour, sugar, salt, yeast, and cinnamon) in the bowl of the mixer. 

Dry-ingredients

 

Next the wet ingredients (egg, melted butter, milk, and water) are combined and added to the dry.

wet-ingredients

 

I mixed the dough on medium speed for about 8 minutes.  I needed to add an additional 3 tablespoons of flour.  The final dough was “soft and pliable, tacky but not sticky”, exactly as RP prescribed.  I learned from fellow BBA challenger  Phyl at “Of Cabbages and Kings“, that “the easiest way is to tell if your dough is tacky or sticky is to press your hand onto the dough and then lift it up. If the dough pulls up with your hand and then releases (so your hand comes away clean), the dough is tacky. If you end up with dough stuck to your hand, it’s sticky.”

The raisins and walnuts are kneaded in by hand at the end of the mixing period so they don’t get too crushed.  I toasted my walnuts first to really bring out their nutty essence.

mixing-in-walnuts-and-raisi

 

The next step is to let the dough ferment (the first rising) for at least 2 hours or until doubled in bulk.  I have always had trouble with the instruction, “doubled in bulk”.. I used to let my dough rise in a bowl and could never judge when it had exactly doubled.  I learned a tip from my fellow challengers on how to easily tell.  They let their dough rise in a square plastic container and put a rubber band around the outside at the top of the dough.  As the dough rises you can easily judge that moment when it has doubled.  So simple but brilliant!

dough-ready-for-fermentatio

 

Here is the dough after 3 hours.  Easy to tell it has doubled.  Actually it more than doubled because I went to exercise, got distracted and forgot about it.

after-2-hours

Next the dough is divided in half and each piece is rolled out to an 8 x 5 inch rectangle.  For an extra burst of cinnamon flavour the whole surface is sprinkled with a cinnamon sugar mixture.

sprinkle-on-cinnamon-and-su

Then the dough is rolled up into a tight log and placed in a small (8 1/2 x 4 1/2 inch) loaf pan for the second rising (proofing).

into-the-pan-for-proofing

Once the dough “crests above the lip of the pan”,  about 2 1/2 hours later, they’re ready for the oven.

after-2.5-hours-2

They go into a 350 degree oven for about 30-40 minutes until an instant read thermometer, inserted into the center of the bread, registers 190 degrees F.  The bread will be golden brown all over.

just-baked-2

I thought that the  bottom of the loaf was quite beautiful so I shot that to show you as well!

the-underside

To really boost the cinnamon flavour PR suggests brushing the loaf with melted butter and then sprinkling the top with cinnamon sugar.  Is it any wonder I have used an entire jar of cinnamon this month?

Brushed with melted butter.

Brushed with melted butter.

Topped with cinnamon sugar.

Topped with cinnamon sugar.

After an agonizing 90 minute wait (I sent impatient angry husband on a bike ride as the aroma was driving him wild!!), we sliced into it and had a few slices with a glass of sauvignon blanc.  Interesting flavour combo.

sliced-2

While this bread was delicious stilll warm from the oven, it really shone the next morning, toasted with butter and a latte!!  I’ll definately be making this one again.  Thanks Mr Reinhart for another keeper!

#8. My Cinnamon Bun Epiphany

 

breakfastThere comes a time in almost every woman’s life when she realizes with crystal clarity that “Yikes,  I’m turning into my mother!”  (I don’t think the same is true for men and their fathers). That time happened for me last week while I was standing in line, waiting to pay, at the Smiths Falls Walmart. 

I went in to buy some raisins to make the cinnamon buns.  While there, I picked up a few other items.  There was an older woman in line behing me.  She tapped me on the shoulder and when I turned around I saw that she had picked up the sports bra I had in my cart.  “Excuse me” she said, “Is this a brassiere?”  I replied that yes indeed it was.  She then proceeded to ask me the price, and upon hearing I was paying $16.00 for a bra, she felt it her duty to inform me that there were bras available for $4.00 at “Giant Tiger” (a discount store, about one step up from the dollar store).

By this time she felt that we were well acquainted enough and she proceeded to lift up her shirt to show me this bargain bra!  I really did not want or intend to look but it’s like a car accident, you can’t tear your eyes away from the wreck!    All I can say is, you get what you pay for.  This bra had no support at all and her boobs drooped down to her stomach.

As I stood there wishing the ground would open up and swallow me whole, wondering “why me?”, it suddenly occurred to me that it’s all in the DNA.  When I was little, my siblings and I would marvel at the way my mother knew the life stories and troubles of almost every stranger she encountered.  She knew the pharmacist’s mother-in-law problems, she knew that grocery check-out girl’s boyfriend had cheated on her, and she knew that although the dry cleaner’s daughter was 5 years old, she still was not sleeping through the night.  My mother emitted some kind of aura that drew strangers towards her.   My mother has many fine qualities, why this particular one was passed on to me I do not know.  I just hope it goes away soon!

 Just thought I’d share that little moment with you all!  Anyways, on to cinnamon buns!

Finally week #8 of the Bread Baker’s Apprentice Challenge.  This was the recipe I have been waiting to make.  I am one of those people who cut out interesting recipes and then file them away to try at some later date.  At the end of the year, when I go through that file, I inevitably find at least 10 different recipes for cinnamon buns.  Yet, I never bake any of them.  It always seems to be too much of an ordeal.  Plus, secretly, I think I am afraid to be alone in the kitchen with 12 freshly baked cinnamon buns.  I’m not sure how many would survive before my family came home.  However, cinnamon buns was this week’s assignment and I have always been a good student when it comes to doing my homework.

I decided to do half cinnamon buns and half sticky buns.  While this is a one day bread, I decided to begin at night and let the buns proof in the fridge overnight so that I could bake them the next morning.

All ready to go:

Cinnamon bun mise-en-place

Cinnamon bun mise-en-place

Mixing up the dough was fairly simple.  It begins with creaming together the butter,  sugar and salt in the mixer with the paddle attachment.

Cream-butter-and-sugar-toge

Next whisk in the egg and lemon zest.  Finally add the yeast and milk and flour (I used all-purpose).   Once the dough forms a ball, you are instructed to switch to the dough hook attachment.  Mine never formed a ball, so I added about 1/4 cup more flour and it sort of formed a ball so I switched to the dough hook.  Here is the dough at the beginning of the mixing period.  It was very wet and sticky.  I had my doubts about this forming a dough I could actually work with, but I took a leap of faith and let the machine do it’s work for 10 minutes.

The beginning of the dough mixing.

The beginning of the dough mixing.

Finally after 10 minutes and about an additional 1/4 cup of flour the mixing was complete.  The dough did come together as promised. 

After 10 minutes of mixing with the dough hook.

After 10 minutes of mixing with the dough hook.

Then it was time for the dough to have it’s primary fermentation (that’s baker’s speak for the first rise.)  Into a greased container it went until it doubled in size.

Dough ready for primary fermentation

Dough ready for primary fermentation

While the dough was rising, I mixed up the caramel glaze for the sticky buns.  The recipe in the book was created by Peter Reinhart’s wife, Susan.  It is an amazing feat of baking chemistry that turns a gooey mixture made from white and brown sugar, butter, corn syrup, salt and vanilla extract into a caramel glaze.  The mixture is spread on the bottom of the baking pan and then the cinnamon buns are placed on top.  As it bakes the sugar caramelizes.  The trick, he says, is to catch it just as it begins to turn a golden amber.  Then it will cool to a soft creamy caramel.  If you leave it in for too  long, and the glaze goes dark brown, the caramel will cool and harden. I figured it would be easiest to tell when the correct colour was reached if I baked my sticky buns in a glass pan.  I used a 8 x 12  inch glass pyrex dish.

The dough took about 2 hours to double in size.

dough-finished-primary-ferm

Then I rolled it out to an 18 x 9 inch rectangle.  It was a beautiful, supple dough to work with.  After rolling I sprinkled it liberally with cinnamon sugar.

dough-rolled-out-to-9-x-18-

I decided to add toasted chopped pecans and raisins inside my buns.

pecans-and-raisins

While this made rolling and cutting the dough a bit more difficult, it was worth it.

rolling-up-dough

Cutting was a bit messy.  Pecans and raisins spilled out everywhere, but I just stuffed them back in.  I wished I had read Tammy’s blog before I did the cutting.  She reminded me of a trick I had forgotten, to use thread or dental floss (not mint!) to make beautiful slices.

I placed 6 of the buns on top of the caramel glaze in the 8 x 12 pyrex pan.  The other six went into a glass dish lined with parchment paper.  They were covered with plastic wrap and then put into the fridge for an overnight rest.

Sticky Buns ready for proofing in the fridge.

Sticky Buns ready for proofing in the fridge.

Cinnamon buns ready for proofing in the fridge.

Cinnamon buns ready for proofing in the fridge.

At this point my husband arrived at the cottage.  He wanted to know when we could eat them.  I said that in the morning they could be taken out of the fridge, but had to sit at room temperature for 3-4 hours, to finish proofing, before they could be baked.  He got up at 6:00 am to take them out of the fridge.  It was a holiday (Canada Day) and I slept in a little.  When I came into the kitchen at 9:00 he was all excited to put them in the oven.  I looked at them and felt them and decided they needed a little longer.  They were still kind of small and cool.  He was very anxious so I told him to go for a run and when he came back they would be ready.  I neglected to tell him that the book instructs you to let them cool for at least 30 minutes after removing from the oven.
Finally, at 10:00 they are ready for the oven.
Cinnamon buns ready for the oven.

Cinnamon buns ready for the oven.

 The cinnamon buns were ready in about 30 minutes and the sticky buns took about 5 minutes longer.  The sticky buns are baked on the bottom shelf of the oven so that the heat can caramelize the glaze.  Cinnamon buns are left to cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then covered with a white fondant glaze (icing sugar, milk and vanilla extract).  Then they are taken out of the pan and left to cool for another 20 minutes.  My husband is convinced I am torturing him.

Glazing the cinnamon buns.

Glazing the cinnamon buns.

I have to confess, this is a photo of the second time I made the cinnamon buns (yesterday).  The book suggested you just streak the buns with the glaze.  The first time I used a fork, but this time I put the glaze into a disposable piping bag and artfully decorated them.
The sticky buns are cooled in the pan for 5 minutes and then you flip them over onto a serving platter and the bottom caramel glaze becomes the top.  Any excess caramel in the pan is poured onto the buns or eaten by hungry on-lookers!!  20 more minutes of cooling.
sticky-buns-out-of-oven-2

Finally it’s time to eat.  Here is angry impatient husband biting into cinnamon bun.

husband-taking-first-bite

Here is angry impatient husband biting into sticky bun.

bite-of-sticky-bun-3

These were unbelievably good.  This recipe alone is worth the price of this cookbook.  My favourite were the sticky buns.  I am a lover of all things caramel but these are in a league of their own.  Biting into one, you get the chewy caramel crust and then inside is all pillowy soft cinnamon goodness. Apparently I actually moaned when I took my first bite.  

P.S.  Husband is no longer angry.  Especially since I made them a second time yesterday.

SkorBar Cookies

 

Bagged-and-ready-to-go

This recipe was created by Daphna Rabinovich, a talented baker I worked with at the David Wood Food Shop in Toronto.  She used chocolate chips and walnuts in her version.  I chop up bittersweet chocolate into chunks and omit the nuts.  This is a very fast and easy recipe, great for those times when you want something decadent and homemade but don’t have alot of time.

What you need:

skor-bar-mise-en-place

4 Skor Bars coarsely chopped                                      
1 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
½ teaspoon salt
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup chocolate chips or chunks

What you do:

  1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees F.  Line a 10 x 15 inch cookie sheet (with sides) with parchment paper.  Set aside.

2.  Using an electric mixer, cream the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. 

creaming-butter-and-sugar

2.  Beat in vanilla and salt.  Add flour, Skor Bars and chocolate chunks. Mix briefly until just combined.

3.  Dump dough into prepared pan. 

dump-into-pan

4.  Press dough evenly into prepared pan.  Bake for about 20 – 25 minutes until golden brown.

pressed-into-pan

5.  Remove from oven and while still warm, score dough with a sharp knife.  I usually do 5 rows down and 7 rows across for 35 cookies.  Put pan on a rack to cool. 

baked

 

 6.  When totally cool, turn out onto a cutting board, peel off parchment and finish cutting into squares.

cut-into-squares-3

Week # 7 Dueling Ciabattas

Cook's Ciabatta on left, BBA Ciabatta on right.

At one time I subscribed to about 13 different magazines, most of them food related.  However, over time I have let most of them lapse because I just never had time to read them.  Now I only get Gourmet and Cook’s Illustrated. Even with just those two, I am still behind in my reading.  However, in this instance being behind happened to be a good thing.  Last week I picked up the March/April issue of Cook’s Illustrated and began to look at the Table of Contents. And there on page 22 was an article titled “Authentic Rustic Ciabatta”.  How about that?  In the very same week I was about to tackle the Bread Baker’s Apprentice version of ciabatta!As I read through both versions I began to compare and saw that these were two very different breads.  The BBA bread used bread flour, while Cook’s called for all-purpose. Both recipes call for a starter of some type but the ratio of starter to flour in the final dough differs.  In the BBA version, the ratio is approximately  2:1 (16 ounces biga: 9 ounces bread flour).  In the Cook’s  version, the ratio is about 1:1 (9 ounces biga: 10 ounces all-purpose flour).   The shaping method in the Cook’s version is also quite different.  They propose a method which reminded me of making puff pastry, where you fold and turn the dough about 16 times.

I was intrigued.  I had never made Ciabatta before and was very curious to see which one I’d prefer.  In order to make this as scientific as possible, I decided to make them at approximately the same time. This is where it got interesting. Note to self (and others who may try this), if you are testing two recipes, do them sequentially, not simultaneously.  I got a bit mixed up in the instructions and ended up using the Cook’s instructions on the BBA dough.

Day One was a breeze!   I made the Poolish for the BBA version and let it sit on the counter for 4 hours and then put it in the fridge overnight.  I made the Cook’s Biga and let it sit overnight on the counter for 12 hours.

BBA Poolish after overnight in fridge