Author Archives: saltandserenity

Black and Tonic

On Sunday, in Ottawa, we are expecting 10 centimetres of snow. I figured it was a perfect time to post a lovely spring cocktail.

The black in the title of this drink refers to Ribena, a blackcurrant concentrate. Ribena was developed in the UK in 1938. It was originally marketed as a healthy drink for kids, owing to its distribution to children as a vitamin C supplement during World War II by the British government. I think it was served to us at snack-time when I was in kindergarten.This is a totally adult version, with gin, lime juice, tonic and lots of ice. I discovered this recipe in the Spring 2013 issue of Food&Drink magazine. Don’t forget to garnish with a few blackberries. We’re going to be fancy! If you want to go the mocktail route, a splash of Ribena is delicious with San Pellegrino and a lime wedge.

Click here to print recipe for Black and Tonic.

Green Spring Soup

Clearly no local asparagus was harmed in the making of this soup. I had to rely on Mexico’s finest. I used leeks instead of onions as my allium choice. I prefer their gentler flavour profile for this soup.
Sautee leeks and a touch of garlic.
I opted for vegetable stock over chicken as I really wanted to let the flavours of the vegetables to shine through. Frozen peas are perfect for this.
Puree the soup in the blender. After that, I am asking you, very nicely, to please strain the soup through a wire mesh sieve. Asparagus is a very fibrous vegetable. Straining it will give you the most velvety texture.
I made some toasted breadcrumbs to sprinkle on top of the soup, I love a bit of crunch with smooth soups. When you are cutting up the asparagus, save the tips. Blanch them in boiling water and use them as a pretty garnish. A drizzle of cream or some really fruity extra-virgin olive oil is a beautiful way to finish this soup.

Click here to print recipe for Green Spring Soup (Asparagus and Green Pea Soup_.

 

Marbled Matzoh Crunch

Marbled Matzoh Crunch is my spin on Marcy Goldman’s “Caramel Matzoh Buttercrunch”, from her classic book, A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking.

Making Matzoh Crunch, on the surface, looks like a fairly simple process.

But, there are a few details you need to pay careful attention to, so that it comes out perfectly.

  1. Make sure you line the baking sheet with foil and then lay a sheet of parchment on top of that. If you use only parchment paper, you will be scrubbing baked on caramel off the pan. If you use only foil, you will have a very hard time peeling the hardened matzoh crunch off of the foil.
  2. Do not use chocolate chips. Buy good quality bittersweet or semi sweet chocolate and chop it up, or buy couverture chocolate callets. Chocolate chips have less cocoa butter in them so they keep their shape during baking, making them more difficult to melt and they have less flavor than bars or callets.
  3. Use real white chocolate. Many products out there that look like white chocolate, especially chips, contain very little, if any, cocoa butter.They will not melt into a smooth liquid, like real white chocolate.
  4. When cutting your matzoh to fit into the baking sheet, cut along the dotted lines the matzoh has, not across them. It will cut into straight pieces.
  5. When cooking the butter and brown sugar, you will get to a point where the butter will separate from the brown sugar and look like an oily mess. Keep stirring and it will come together and thicken and bubble. That’s when it’s ready to pour onto the matzoh.
  6. Do not omit the step where you sprinkle the wet chocolate with the sea salt. Chocolate and caramel are sweet. You need the salt.
  7. Once the chocolate is set, remove it from the fridge and let it sit for about 30 minutes before cutting it into pieces. If you cut it cold, right from the fridge, the chocolate layer will separate from the caramel covered matzoh. If you wait until the chocolate softens a bit, it will stay sogether with the caramel. A very sharp knife is essential. For an alternate version, use milk chocolate and chopped toasted almonds. Also very delicious. 

Click here to print recipe for Marbled Matzoh Crunch.

Click here to print recipe for Milk Chocolate Almond Matzoh Crunch.

 

Tropical Macaroons

This year for Passover I wanted to try something a little different for our dessert table. I always make coconut macaroons diped in chocolate.   Not that there’s anything wrong with that. They’re practically perfect.

I decided to put a tropical twist on my macaroons. This year our Seder theme is to come dressed as a character from a Tom Hanks movie. (don’t ask!!). I figured that these cookies would be right at home on the set of Cast AwayI started with a recipe from David Lebowitz for coconut pineapple macaroons. Cook down some crushed canned pineapple and sugar until it reaches a jam-like consistency. I ramped up the tropical vibe with some macadamia nuts and white chocolate.
It is traditional to utter these words at the end of every Passover Seder, “Next year in Jerusalem.” It’s entirely possible these little macaroons will have us declaring “Next year in Hawaii.”

Click here to print recipe for Tropical Macaroons.

This tart was created because I had a big bowl of wild mushrooms languishing in my fridge from a photo shoot last week. The mushroom photo below was my homework for the Composition Essentials Course I am taking from the very talented Australian food photographer, Rachel Korinek. Not only does she take gorgeous food shots, but she is an extremely skilled teacher.One of our assignments was to look at our past photos and find gaps, areas we had not explored from certain compositional viewpoints. In reviewing my pictures, I noticed that I shoot really tight, and don’t leave much breathing room. I guess it’s the photographic equivalent of close talkers.

Negative space is naturally calming. It helps to emphasize your subject and provides your image with balance. The second compositional tool I incorporated into my mushroom photo was advanced lines. I used a gently curving arabesque, which takes your eye on a journey from the top to the bottom of the frame.

I wanted to make something springlike, because I’m tired of roasted veggies and hearty soups. Leeks are one of the first signs of spring to appear on the market shelves, and their sweet mellow flavour is a perfect complement to earthy mushrooms. Plus, they don’t make me cry, like onions do, when I slice them.

This galette dough is one of my favourite pastry recipes. I learned how to make it in my very first kitchen job almost 30 years ago. It uses butter and sour cream and it rolls out like a dream. No cracking or shrinking.

Ricotta, gruyere and parmesean cheese are combined to create a base before the mushrooms and leeks are added. Leave a border and then gently pleat the dough to encase the filling.

A drizzle of olive oil before baking.

A generous zesting of lemon after baking.

Click here to print recipe for Mushroom Leek Galette.

 

Yeasted Cornmeal Waffles with Roasted Strawberry Rhubarb Sauce

Although the calendar says that Spring arrives this week, my reality says otherwise. I live in Ottawa. There is no rhubarb poking it’s little head out of the frozen earth, begging to be picked,  in my neck of the woods. Yet, I’m anxious for it to be Spring already, so I hurried things along by using frozen rhubarb and imported strawberries. Desparate times, folks.

These yeasted cornmeal waffles are the perfect vehicle to showcase the strawberry-rhubarb sauce. These are not waffles to be made on a whim. You must plan ahead and make the batter overnight. Sorry, but time is the secret ingredient in these sublime waffles. These cornmeal waffles are my spin on Marion Cunningham’s waffles from her classic tome, “The Breakfast Book. Although this little book is over 20 years old, it has stood the test of time. If you love breakfast/brunch foods, you need to add this book to your shelf.

Yeast, warm water, and a pinch of sugar get things going. Add some buttermilk, salt, all-purpose flour and cornmeal and mix up the magic. Leave it on the counter overnight. In the morning, behold a glorious bubbling concoction. Add eggs and baking soda and you’re ready to waffle.
Let’s talk strawberry-rhubarb sauce. First, the elephant in the room. Rhubarb is bracingly sour. We need something to tame the tang. Of course you could use sugar, but we’re making waffles here, so maple syrup is my sweetner of choice. It has more depth of flavour than plain white sugar and it really flatters the tart and acidic tone of rhubarb. As a bonus, it helps to enhance imported strawberries.

Roast the fruit with maple syrup for about 40 minutes. This sauce will keep in the fridge for about a week. I have been mixing the leftover sauce into my plain greek yogurt in the morning. So much better than buying flavoured yogurt.

Click here to print recipe for Yeasted Cornmeal Waffles with Roasted Strawberry-Rhubarb Sauce.

Apple Cheddar Hand Pies

Happy Pi Day (3.14/March 14). Pie making is not my strong suit. I have always struggled with uneven and cracking dough while rolling, and shrinking dough while baking. I’m much more comfortable whipping up a swiss meringue buttercream for a cake or a dozen salted caramel macarons.

It seems like every day is National Something or Other Day. There is actually a calendar to keep us informed. Did you know that April 14 is National Ex-Spouse Day? Maybe people celebrate it with a smash cake? Some food bloggers are super organized and maintain an editorial calendar to track and feature all these days. Sadly, I don’t fall into that category. But, Pi day is something I feel like I can get behind. Last year we celebrated with Spiced Lamb Hand Pies.

I have a thing for hand pies. They’re just so adorable and I feel no guilt about eating a tiny pie.

The pie dough for this recipe comes from pastry wizzard Stella Parks, over at Serious Eats. She calls for a 1:1 ratio of flour:butter, by weight. Most typical pastry dough recipes use more flour than butter. The extra butter in her dough creates a dough that’s pliable but strong, making cracks and tears a thing of the past.
It gets folded once, to create extra flaky layers.

The apple filling is classic and simple. Apples, brown sugar, cinnamon and a pinch of salt.
Sharp white cheddar makes a fine companion for apples, but use orange cheddar if that’s all you have.
I decided to get fancy and make a decorative braided border on my pies. Ever since I saw this Apricot Pie I wanted to try my hand at dough braiding. I still need a bit of practice, but it was fun to do. You can simply leave them plain and they’ll be equally delicious

Click here to get recipe for Cheddar Apple Hand Pies.

If you plan to make these, I highly recommend watching Stella’s video demonstrating how to make the dough.

Mediterranean Chicken Sandwich

Last week, as I was watching TV, this commercial caught my attention. It featured a young woman, staring wistfully, at the bountiful bread counter at Whole Foods. As they panned across the crusty artisan loaves, the tagline, “Maybe bread and you should be a thing again”, scrolled across the screen.

Personally, bread and I have never broken up. Bread has a very special place in my heart. It’s how I began my blogging journey, nine years ago, as I baked my way, alphabetically, from Anadama to Whole Wheat, in Peter Reinhart’s Bread Baker’s Apprentice. 

I’m a big believer in Julia Child’s credo, “Everything in moderation…including moderation.” So many people I know are abstaining from bread. While I don’t indulge in it everyday, I believe that if it’s good bread, I have a responsibility to eat it. The burnished crust on the baguettes at my local bakery were too calling my name.Sandwich making is not as simple as slapping a filling between two slices of bread. There’s an art to it. I’ll fill you in on how the pros do it.

Use two sauces instead of just one. Elevate plain mayo by adding a teaspoon of chipotle chiles in adobo sauce. Their smoky mild heat takes plain mayo from drab to fab. Slather this on one side of the baguette. On side two, spread some olive tapenade for a punch of umami. You can make your own, or purchase some from the olive cart at the supermarket.

If it’s not the height of tomato season, roast some little cherry or grape tomatoes. Make sure you oil and season them well. Every layer of the sandwich should be seasoned. Slice some roasted or grilled chicken. A supermarket rotisserie chicken is perfect for this.

Even if you aren’t an onion fan, I urge you to try pickling some onions. It takes about 15-20 minutes and is simple to do. It removes all the harshness of raw onions and becomes quite mellow. I’ve included instructions in the recipe. Don’t forget to show your avocado some seasoning love as well. A squeeze of lemon or lime juice, some salt and pepper are all that’s needed. Finish with some fresh basil and some peppery arugula or a handful of micro greens.Dagwood would be jealous!

Click here to print recipe for Mediterranean Chicken Sandwich.

Avocado Labne Toast

If my sweet version of breakfast labne toast with strawberries and honey didn’t convince you to bust out the cheesecloth and make some labne, perhaps this savory version will.

Labne, also known as yogurt cheese, is simple to make. Mix plain yogurt (greek or regular, your choice) with a bit of lemon juice and salt. Put it in a cheesecloth lined strainer, set over a bowl. Leave it in the fridge for 24-28 hours, depending on how thick you like it. You can feed the whey drippings to your pet pig, if you happen to have one. If not, just discard.

Homemade labne will keep in the fridge for 2 weeks, so make a big batch and shake up your morning breakfast routine.

Start with good bread. A hearty artisnal loaf, something substantial, maybe one loaded with seeds and nuts. Please remember to deeply toast your bread, otherwise the labne will soak into the bread like a sponge, and that would be sad.
Plain avocadoes are bland. They need to be treated with the magic trifecta of acid, salt and heat. In this case, I used lime juice, flaky sea salt and maras red pepper. If you don’t know about maras pepper, you need to learn about it and get yourself a bag. They are sun-dried Turkish peppers with a slow, subtle heat. They instantly add a hit of brightness to everything you put them on. If you have a Mid-East grocery in your city, they will likely stock it.

Add some toasted pistachios for a little crunch. And if you happen to have a jar of dukkah in the pantry, a sprinkle of that will really take this breakfast to the next level deliciousness.

Click here to print recipe for Avocado and Labne Breakfast Toast.

 

Cinnamon Bun Hamentashen with Almond Shortbread Dough

I first made these hamentashen six years ago. Inspired by cinnamon buns, I stuffed the hamentashen with brown sugar, cinnamon, butter and chopped almonds and pecans. What could be bad about that? I used my Aunt Carol’s traditional oil based dough and once baked, I drizzled them with an icing sugar glaze. They were a big hit.

But then, last year I had a hamentashen epiphany. I discovered Israeli bread baking guru Uri Scheft‘s almond butter shortbread dough . He wrapped up his poppy seed hamentashen with this gorgeous buttery dough. I made them and I was hooked!

I wondered what would happen if I put the cinnamon bun filling into the almond shortbread dough? I mean, I knew it would be good, but I had no idea how seriously good it would be. That chewy cinnamon filling wrapped up in a crumbly cookie dough is off the charts good!

I went a little bit rogue and made the dough with salted butter, given my success with the Salted Butter Skor Shortbread cookies.

Click here to print recipe for Cinnamon Bun Hamentashen with Almond Shortbread Dough.